YA LEUM 11 — Kayak and trekking in Laos
We finished two relaxing weeks in Luang Prabang. Time to move.
My main reason to go to Laos was to hike in the forest. If you may remember, I have not prepared the sightseeing beforehand. Once I arrived in Laos, people told me Laos does not have so many trekking trails, special in the rainy season (which was the case). I was so disappointed, you cannot imagine, although it was my fault since I set high expectations. There were certainly nice hiking trails to do, but this is not the place for overnight trekking with wild camping.
I did not mind. I was fully determined to hike in the exotic jungle of Laos, no matter how much I would need to move around.
Then, someone told me about some famous wild hikes in a small town named Luang Namtha, a place in north of Laos. This place is pretty much still off radar for most tourists, so you only can find basic accommodation and simple places to eat. Early in the evening, the town becomes quite a ghost place. The town just serves as the starting point for different types of hikes.
When I was in Thailand I met five of my back home friends who were also backpacking throughout Asia. Pure coincidence. I met two of them, Falco and Nienke, three times. The last time was in Luang Namtha to hike together. So when we arrived in the evening, they were waiting for us. I was so happy to see them after such a worn-out day.
That evening, we hired a two-days rainforest trek, combined with kayaking.
Was I looking for an adventure? Yes! Did I have one? Hell yeah, more than one!
We met up in the morning with the remaining group and our guide. We left shortly after and did a stop over at the local market to pick up food to cook later. We came back to the car to go until the next destination and start with the first activity: Kayaking.
We drove about one hour to be dropped off in an area with a good entrance to the river. Another guide showed up, since we were quite a big group. When I learnt we were about to start, I felt a little nervous. It did not last too long, though. We were given life jackets, the kayaks and tips. One of the guides stayed with me and the other guide stayed with Madalena. The nervousness disappeared after a few minutes when we all jumped in the water with our kayaks.
We followed the river, learning its pace and enjoying the lush views. Talking to each other from our kayaks and feeling the fresh water in our souls.
The views of the forest on both sides of the river were stunning, and you could feel happiness in everyone’s face. Our guides, always attentive and kind to us, drove us along the river of Nam Ha National park in safety and fun.
We stopped first in one of the villages by the river, the few we could go. They were isolated and outside people just can get in with permission from the head of the village. It was about ten bamboo huts, a vegetable garden and some pigs moving around. It is just possible to leave from there by boat since they are surrounded by the dense forest.
Back in our kayaks, we encountered a more adventurous river. Some rapids made me release some small shouts and sometimes we got stuck between bushes or rocks in the water. Everything is part of the kayak experience… Sometimes, they needed to jump on the water to move the kayak from being stuck in the stones.
The lunch stop was in a small village with just about three or four houses. We greeted the owner who sat with us, and together with our guide prepared the food we bought in the market. We laid down on the floor the big banana leaves the guide picked up on the way. Then we arranged “small banana leave plates” to share the food among everyone. Authentic delicacies I still miss and I wish to eat again and again.
Some rest after lunch and back in the water. More rapids to come and just before end of the day we arrived on the hill tribe village. This village had many more houses and was more lively than the previous ones, however facilities were basic.
By basic, I mean no place for shower. Showering is with a bucket in the middle of the road, wrapped in a towel, with some curious and smile eyes on you. I shared the moment with my friend Nienke, and certainly, we will not forget this precious moment.
The dinner was cooked by our guide. Kind and strong man, as most people I met in Laos. Always eager to talk to us and share everything he knew. We used the kitchen from someone’s house and he showed us to cook the Lao jungle food.
The whole group slept in the same house, sharing some mats and mosquito nets. It was not a very easy night, a lot of mosquitos and a mouse moving around….
The following morning, I did not wake up with a lot of energy since I slept very bad.
However, time to start the day trek. We had two guides, for one of them, it was the first time leading a group. Sometimes, you could see in his face he did not exactly know how to handle the group, but that had nothing to do with him knowing the jungle like his own hands.
It was the first time I got introduced to the Asian impressive strength. Asian men and women are slim and strong. Everywhere in Asia, I found people carrying and lifting massive weights in their apparently light bodies. Quickly, I trusted the Asian people to drive me in jungles, hikes, motorbikes, rivers and even their own backs through the entire trip. And, I felt safer than ever.
This trekking was physically challenging with steep and slippery slopes, since we were in the rainy season. The slippery path was the most challenging part for me because I have a terrible balance.
The less experienced guide was doing the trek in flip flops…
The jungle was virgin, not pre-made paths for tourists! Check! That is what I was looking for. Our guides were literally cutting the new path with the machete. Such explorers we were!
On our way for lunch, we collected banana leaves and some wood to prepare fire. Although the weather threated us with rain and humidity, the lunch was another moment of delight. These guys are definitely husband material — kind, strong, handsome and cooks!
We resumed the walk shortly to respect timings. Still a few more hours to go, cross those crazy bamboo shaking bridges, get muddy and return to the town of Luang Namtha! It was an intense day, but it would have been odd otherwise. We were still with energy for a warm shower and meet again at the pub with our guide to a nice goodbye.
It was the end of our adventure in the Laos jungle and now time to decide the next stop.
We were not completely sure where we wanted to go, if visit some other areas around Luang Namtha, go to Vietname or do the opposite direction all the way south.
These indecisions took us two days. We also did not mind to take a time to rest in the small town.
Since Thailand, Madalena was with an eye on the Australian holiday-visa. She thought it could be a good opportunity to travel and work at the same time. While we were in Luang Namtha, she realized it was needed to get an English certificate and gather some official documents. She needed to take the English test as soon as possible, because the visa deadline was soon. There was one place in Vientiane to take the English test, but the place was fully booked. Anyways we decided to return to the capital to give it a try and talk to the school.
From Luang Namtha we took a 22 hours sleeping bus. It was a very pleasant ride! 22 hours always lying down. Again, the same beautiful view we saw on the way up. There was time to listen to music, sleep, read, eat, talk…a bit of everything. The only thing I disliked is that, at any moment, someone could come in and share the bed-seat with you. Still today, I find that surreal. When that moment arrived, I jumped immediately to Madalena’s bed-seat.
Arrived at Vientiane, we took a small public bus and asked to stop in front of the school so we could ask for the English test, not believing it would work.
Madalena ran inside the English school, the small public tuktuk waited outside on the main road with people inside, Madalena came back in 3 minutes and said “I can get the test in 3 days! So, I am staying, and later, I will arrange to go to Bangkok for the other documents. Better you continue, I don’t know how long this will take”.
I was somehow shocked by the news, sad to leave her like this but happy she was going after a plan that would make a big change in her journey. Going to Australia is a lifetime experience.
Madalena removed her bags quickly, we said a fast goodbye without a hug or encouragement words for the journey and the calm morena vibe with a touch of sea, left now to a new journey.
There I was, alone for the first time in this trip. My travel mate disappeared in a second and now the same tuk tuk was taking me nowhere.
It was 9 am, I had some ideas to go to the 4000 islands, all the way south of Laos, border with Cambodia. No idea how I would get there, because I guessed probably there was no direct bus since the 4000 islands are about 900 km in Laos road…
I asked the driver to drop me in the bigger bus station and I would decide from there, where to go next.
Thank you to Madalena for all the creativity, patience and kindness and to join me in this journey of “what people do for love? “, around the world. She is a friend now who helps me to remember the details of our trip. I always liked what she sees through her lens. Her photographs transmit her softness and artistic soul. I hope she continues showing to the world what she can see. For now, I share them in my blog.
Madalena did the English test, returned to Bangkok, traveled to Malaysia later and eventually she got her visa to go to Australia.
