YA LEUM.15 — Let’s go Cambodge
It has been two months since I split with Mathieu in North of Thailand. Our relationship-to-be was going strong.
I was expecting some disconnection since we would be apart for three months. The opposite happened for my great surprise: we often talked, the content of conversations were good and our relationship felt close.
We had a not yet defined relationship, but we were lovers.
As lovers, we made plans about our trip together, where we would travel and what we would like to do. I was looking forward to seeing him, as I was to continue to travel by myself.
In about a month, we would be together again. Some excitement was already pilling up.
For now, time to enjoy this precious time alone. Or, sometimes, not so much…
A few days before leaving Nok Noi, I met Tania.
Tania is from Canada and well-traveled. She is adventurous and an attentive woman. She was traveling alone and we met in the Nok Noi guesthouse a few days before. Everyone is right, it is really so easy to make new friends and travel with someone.
Do you want to be completely alone? It is possible, but you have to work hard for it.
Finding nice people, from all over the world, with amazing stories to tell, is a gift.
Cambodia is known by its exuberant Angkor Wat, the artistic capital of Phnom Penh, the white sandy beaches around Sihanoukville and the charming digital nomad town of Kampot; all of it in Western Cambodia. I wanted to also explore a less touristic scene, since I did not need to rush anywhere.
East Cambodia feels remote and away from the rest of the country. The rural Cambodia and the modern west are separated by the Mekong River that crosses the entire country in one go.
Right in the border with Laos, east side of Mekong, are the highlands. In this region, we can find the provinces of Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri. Both offer a virgin nature and a rich wildlife. Further south, along the river is Kratie, a town mostly known to watch the Irrawaddy dolphins (a specie in extinction).
I was more interested in the green rural Cambodia and its depopulated towns.
Tania and I took a long bus to Banlung, the capital of the Ratanakiri province. Banlung is just the sleeping town for tourists who aim to visit the region around. The town itself does not offer too much, but the nature around is worth visiting. There are plenty of waterfalls to visit, hikes to do, elephants foundations and the renowned Yeak Laom lake.
Yeak Laom is a marvellous, clean, perfect 800m diameter lake, in the center of a 4,000 year-old volcanic crater.
My jaw dropped with so much beauty! The perfect circle and the tranquil atmosphere gives a sense of perfection.
The lake was surrounded by trees and welcoming areas to relax by the water. There were little people around. We enjoyed, swam and relaxed during the afternoon.
Another time, we visited the Cha Ong waterfall. About 9km from Ban Lung, it is the Cha Ong village where it is possible to find this waterfall.
We hired a tuk tuk in Banlung to take us there.
Here, I started my first interactions with Khmer people. Our driver, as all Khmers (how Cambodian people call themselves) was tremendously kind. He was continuously smiling and always revealing certainty about his profession and skills.
The ride was pleasant, until we got to an unpaved path. Then, it got dangerous! The road was so bumpy due to heavy rain from the past days, that our driver asked us to step off the tuk tuk.
100 meters later, the tuk tuk fell over! The driver was fine, but it was a scary moment for us, seeing him and the tuk tuk turned around. He stood up, we helped to flip over the tuk tuk and continued the expedition.
Arriving at Chang Ong waterfall, we found no one there. The waterfall was inside a jungle-like scenery and it was possible to swim. We really liked!
Later, we returned to the city by tuk tuk and for the last few kms, we took a ride of someone in a motorbike we met randomly!
Me and Tania had a lot of fun together, but it was the moment to split. She was motivated to go to Kratie and I was in the mood to continue to Mondulkiri.
These moments are unique: we, travelers, move in parallel journeys. Sometimes, our paths overlap, and we walk together; in the next moment, the same paths return to their original place and we continue alone.
Now, I was back on the road, alone.
I had no strong reason to go to Mondulkiri, but I was in the mood to take it slow. Being alone is magical because I can precisely tune my mood with the environment. No matter where I am, alone, I always take a different pace. Apparently, my real one. While traveling, I noticed, it can be tranquil and at ease.
From Banlung to Sen Monorom (the main city in Mondulkiri), is a short bus ride of 4 hours between plantations and other towns.
I had no idea what to expect of Sen Monorom, as I did not research a thing besides the fact there was some sightseeing to do. The bus stop was in a parking lot, just by the main street of the town.
It was hot! There was a mix of paved and unpaved roads, with small colorful houses, giving a feeling of a forgotten place, but yet untouched.
I took that time I always take to look around. Still, I did not get the vibe of the place. I felt something, but I do not know what.
I walked around to look for guesthouses, but I was not successful. They were over my budget and looking uncomfortable. I was confused with the place. Normally, in such towns you find many hostels and guesthouses, but I forgot I was not in a very touristic place.
Finally, I gave up trusting my instinct and used booking.com.
The first popping up was cheap, looking good, and walking distance.
Upon arrival, the hostel had a ghosty feeling. Ah, wait! It is low-season Patricia.
I got a bunk-bed in a 4-bedroom, on the first floor. In front of the room, there was a huge terrace, with a view that immediately changed my outlook about the place and the town.
A wide open view over the green-grass pine trees blended with 60’s colorful houses, laying in a lush red soil typical from an African bucolic scenery.
In a second, I moved to a state of contemplation. I took a seat to look around and let myself mingle with the place. A feeling of joy got hold of me and I felt at ease.
I found a place to slow down, turned off the engines one by one and enjoyed the slow living from the back seat of an open roof car.
The day after, I woke up with the same ease. I had bought some fruits and crackers for an improvised breakfast and prepared that on a nice platter to continue enjoying the view from the day before.
I found some sightseeing just outside of the town that I would explore after breakfast.
During breakfast, a girl got outside of the room and said Hi. As I introduced myself, a conversation started.
Maria, a spanish woman, with a gentle move and soft smile gave me some company while I was eating. The conversation was good, but I was determined to explore the area around.
However, time passed way too fast and we talked for three hours. Naturally, not more sightseeing that day and I just planned the upcoming days.
East Cambodia has an extensive wildlife, with plenty of animals to watch.
I booked a day trekking in the jungle with the possibility to see elephants. The project organizing it sounded very fair to me, after doing some research about them.
We did a small trekking around the highlands, watched rivers and waterfalls, and had lunch in the humid and fresh jungle. After lunch, a huge storm fell over the tent, so we waited inside, cozy, until the sun came out.
Later, the guides took us out of the tent and walked with us further in the trees. They said to stay quiet and stand still. They did not say why.
Moments later, we saw two elephants moving slowly around our area.
Such an enchanting moment.
I have never seen elephants so close to me. They are charming, with an imposing sweetness, and a tough skin.
I was so mesmerized by their beautiful sound and their way to move around us.
They come every day to take a bath in the river with their caregivers, which were our guides too.
Our guides walked with them to the river and we followed them, but further away. We should not stand behind the elephants.
Each guide takes care of its own elephant as they know exactly who is who.
The ritual bath, which we observed from far, was among one of the most fairy moments I have witnessed so far.
It was a cheerful and genuine dance between both of them. The elephants and the caregivers were so happy to share that moment together in the river, alone and far from everyone. The superb scenery around and the melody of happiness echoed up to the trees and the river streams.
We, tiny creatures, observed the immensity and beauty of nature revealing in front of us.
And I was with them.
July 2017,
Patricia Assis
